DISCLAIMER: I was not compensated for writing this post. I have no professional affiliation with Restorer Tools, I just really think this is the best sander for stripping furniture. Any other affiliate links below are unrelated and did not, in any way, change the opinion expressed in this post. Thanks!
Hi all! I hope everyone is happy and healthy during these lovely times. I apologize to anyone that tried to visit my site in February. I switched to a new host and had a few technical difficulties for most of the month. But I’m all situated now with a site running faster than ever thanks to A2 Hosting. Now, onto furniture!
We’re back on the topic of stripping furniture!
It seems like I’ve discussed this a few times already, but it really is one of the suckiest parts of furniture refinishing. Don’t you agree?
And finally! I do believe there is an official “Best Sander for Stripping Furniture.”
And even better, it’s way more than just a regular old sander.
This Tool is a Portable Drum Sander, Stripper, and Polisher in one.
It not only strips furniture paint and rust, but it’s also great for sanding abnormal wood surfaces, texturizing wood, and even polishing wood or metal.
The name of this impossible tool? The Restorer.
I’d say it’s the perfect choice for a name, right? If you haven’t heard of it yet, you can find it in most local hardware stores. Craftsman and Porter Cable both have the restorer tool available, or you can purchase the original Restorer Tool here.
At Restorertools.com you can truly see all of the different applications for this tool. From stripping a wooden deck to automobile rust removal to polishing metal jewelry and even glass! But for restoring furniture, you’re almost 100% covered with this thing.
First, let’s go over the Restorer Tool’s features and handling.
Size-wise the tool is slightly smaller than the average belt sander and definitely lighter at only 4.5lbs.
I have trouble using the belt sander on most jobs due to the weight and size of it, so that’s a bonus for sure.
The setup is nice with a gripped trigger handle for one hand, and a soft-grip handle on top for the opposite hand. This makes the tool easy to control whether you’re working on a flat surface below, a curved surface above, or even vertical surfaces in front of you.
On the side of the trigger handle, there is a lock-on button to help with hand fatigue and keep the roller power steady. As long as you keep the restorer moving forward and backward along the grain of the wood, you shouldn’t have to worry about gouging the surface of your piece.
You don’t want to put much pressure on the tool as you move it along the surface.
Just like most other sanders, the weight of the tool is enough for it to do it’s job correctly. Pressing down on the tool while it’s on will most likely slow the motor speed down, cause more friction and heat, and may even damage the motor if you continuously use it incorrectly.
The variable speed is actually variable with 6 different speeds!
The speed knob can be set on 1, for the slowest speed at 1000 RPM, all the way up to MAX, the fastest speed at 3200 RPM. There isn’t a huge jump between RPMs with 6 different settings, but just enough to find the perfect sweet spot for each surface.
While removing heavier finishes, or sanding rougher surfaces, you’ll want to stay in the lower range of speeds to keep the heat from rising too high. Too much heat can cause sandpaper clogs and possibly, damage to your work surface.
For sanding surfaces that are smoother with little to no finish, you can use the higher speed settings.
The Restorer tool has a dust port on the back for easily attaching a vacuum hose for dust removal.
This feature is nice, but I would’ve been happier if it had a bag or dust canister like my new Bosch Orbital Sander. You don’t have to attach the tool to a vacuum, it will still operate without a hose attached.
The only reason I have trouble using the vacuum attached to the tool is the noise. Being a stay-at-home mother I usually have to do all of my work out in the garage at night time. A little noise is OK, but having the two things running at once is a bit much for me and my neighbors!
I was worried that the dust would shoot out the back of the restorer while it was running, and leave me in a dust cloud the first time I tried it. Luckily, this did not happen.
As you can see at the end of the video below, without suction from a hose on that end of the tool, the dust pretty much just settled behind the roller and fell into a pile on the surface I was sanding. It surprisingly doesn’t blow around a lot, but you do need to stop and clean off your surface pretty regularly.
Testing Out The Restorer Tool: 60 Grit Sanding Sleeve
This was legit my first time trying out the tool, as you can see by the video, it took a bit of getting used to but it really wasn’t hard. I was amazed at how quickly the sanding wheel removed the paint.
The 60 Grit Sanding Roller Sleeves ate through the paint like nothing. When I tried the Paint and Rust Removal Roller Wheel with the same pressure, it did next to nothing on the same cabinet door.
Testing Out the Restorer Tool: Paint and Rust Removal Wheel
The paint and rust removal wheel isn’t just a sleeve. You have to switch out the roller completely, so the roller wheel is a lot harder than the roller wheel used for the sanding sleeves. I think you just need to put a bit more pressure on it for the same result. I had Scott give it a try, and he had much better results.
Testing Out the Restorer Tool: Paint and Rust Removal Wheel Take 2
So it seems you just need a bit more pressure for the Paint and Rust Removal Wheel, at least on wood surfaces. For something like metal furniture rust removal, I think this would be the perfect option.
As for stripping furniture, I think I’ll stick with the Restorer’s sandpaper sleeves.
They’re available in all of the normal grits: 120, 220, 80, 60. Stripping furniture definitely requires a lower grit, but with the variable speeds on the Restorer, I may be trying it out for finish sanding as well.
If you need help with sanding, staining, or painting wood furniture, be sure to check out my many posts on Furniture Restoration.
So there we have it! The best sander for stripping furniture: The Restorer Tool. Hands down. What do you think? Have you tried out the Restorer tool? Leave a comment and let me know what you think!
And don’t forget to sign up for my mailing list to receive updates on future blog posts!
Since I began my custom refinishing business, I’ve been amazed by the number of requests I’ve gotten for help with repairing damaged wood finishes on dining tables, coffee tables, etc.
It is a relatively easy job, but at the same time, it’s a little intimidating. Especially on an expensive piece.
Which is completely understandable! Wood tables are the centermost gathering place in your homes. You’re nervous to be without them for too long. And, of course, you don’t want to screw the table up worse than it already is!
So today I will discuss repairing damaged wood finishes. More specifically; lacquer, shellac, varnish, and polyurethane finishes. I will help you first – identify the clear finish your piece has– and second – repair each of those clear wood finishes.
Lacquer, Varnish, Polyurethane, and Shellac are the 4 most common finishes found on wood tabletops.
It’s also becoming more and more common to find waxes on wood furniture pieces. Wax doesn’t provide anywhere near the protection as the finishes I’ll be discussing today, but some people do use it alone to seal stained wood pieces.
Wax can be used, but I’d recommend using it only for polishing a completely dry film finish.
Wax applied on top of other finishes like lacquer or shellac, helps to polish it up nicely. Although it needs to be reapplied over time, it’s actually a nuisance to completely remove.
Always check for wax, and remove it, before applying any solvents to your piece to figure out which finish you have.
If you can scratch the finish with the back of your fingernail or a coin, without much effort, there is probably wax on it. Clean the wax off with mineral spirits before attempting to identify which finish you have.
DO NOT sand the piece if there’s wax on it.
It will not remove the wax, only spread it around more, and push it deeper into the surface of the wood. It’s difficult enough to remove wax completely from wood, don’t make it harder on yourself!
Use lots of clean rags and mineral spirits, changing frequently. If the rag feels waxy, it’s most likely spreading wax around on your piece even more. Change to a fresh one to avoid this annoyance.
Once you know your piece is free from wax, you can perform a pretty simple test to narrow down your finish.
Be sure to test your piece in the exact order I have here. Some solvents work for multiple finishes, so this order is the best way to narrow it down correctly.
Table of Contents
How To Identify Lacquer, Shellac, Varnish, and Polyurethane Wood Finishes
1. Apply a drop or two of Denatured Alcohol to an inconspicuous spot on the piece. Let it sit for about 10 seconds, then check it.
– If the finish is shellac, the surface should be soft and sticky.
-If the denatured alcohol just sits on top of the finish, or nothing happens, try the next step.
2. Apply a small amount of Lacquer Thinner to a different, inconspicuous spot on the piece.
– If, after a few seconds, the finish softens almost to a liquid form, or is soft, sticky, or mushy, you’ve got a lacquer finish. If the lacquer thinner beads or sits on top of the finish, you’ve most likely got a varnish or polyurethane finish.
3. At this point, if you know it’s not a lacquer or shellac finish, then you’re looking at a varnish finish. Believe it or not, polyurethane is just a type of varnish.
Yes, the two are different, but it honestly doesn’t matter a whole lot whether it’s varnish or poly based on how you will repair it.
The only thing you might need to know is whether it’s water-based/waterborne or oil. Varnish is an oil-based resin that is great for outdoor furniture. Polyurethane can be either water or oil-based. To be sure, try out the xylene.
– Apply the xylene to a different spot on your piece, and leave it on for a bit longer than the lacquer thinner or alcohol. If the area becomes sticky, you’re looking at a water-based polyurethane.
– If nothing happens, you’ve got a varnish or oil-based polyurethane finish. Both can be repaired the same way, which I will discuss later in this article.
Once you’ve figured out the finish you’re working with, you can attempt to repair it.
Each finish has to be repaired in it’s own specific way. I will explain each one separately for you next!
Before I do though, I just want you to make sure, one more time, that you only need to repair the clear finish, and not completely refinish the entire piece.
If the scratches on your piece go all the way down to the wood, you may need to sand and re-stain your piece as well as redo the clear finish.
Most often, damages to finished wood tables, are only surface scratches.
Sometimes it may even be damage to the wax or furniture polish on top of the finish!
If you look at the scratch from an angle, it may appear white, but the wood beneath should not have any discoloration. If this is the case, you’re looking at a surface scratch.
If the wood itself looks lighter beneath the finish, it may also be damaged. In that case, you would have to completely refinish the table, including stripping and/or sanding and re-staining the wood.
To be completely sure the scratches are superficial, clean the surface thoroughly.
I usually try mineral spirits first-off either way. Just in case there are any waxes anywhere on the surface. Afterward, warm water and dish detergent should be sufficient enough to remove any other oil or dirt build-up on the surface.
Scrub reasonably hard. You may be surprised! More often than not, a “scratch” is just dirt or whatever “crud” happened to get stuck to the table. Be grateful if you’re that lucky!
Work quickly, and don’t soak the wood too much with water. Instead of pouring the water over the wood, wet a cloth and apply it that way. Too much water can cause a white haze on lacquer and shellac finishes.
Overcoating with a varnish or poly to match. Reamalgamation does not work on varnish or polyurethane.
I created a nice little printable chart for you to hang up in your work space 🙂 It will hopefully help you to remember the steps for identifying each finish, and what you can do to repair them!
Sign up for my mailing list below and receive a free download of this Printable Finish Identification & Repair Chart, and a bunch more, including DIY Project Planner Pages, Wood Identification Cheat Sheet, and Sandpaper Grit Cheat Sheet just to start!
Repairing a Lacquer or Shellac Finish: Amalgamation
Reamalgamation can be done on lacquer or shellac finishes that have cracks, scratches, or have alligatored or crazed overtime. Usually due to excessive sunlight or temperature changes.
If you’ve ever seen a finish that has alligatored, you’d know right away what I mean. You’ll see a bunch of small, intersecting lines that resemble the rough skin of an alligator. Clever right?
Crazed finishes are similar, but have less of a pattern than alligatored finishes do. The lines are all over the place in a “crazed” pattern.
Either way, these little cracks are in the finish only, not the wood. Again, making the amalgamation process possible.
Amalgamation is pretty much re-liquifying the finish, and then letting it harden again.
It will then harden into a new, solid, flat surface, without the original cracks or scratches.
As we talked about earlier, lacquer and shellac both have their own solvents for re-liquifying.
If you think your piece has both lacquer and shellac on it, you can use a mix of 3 parts denatured alcohol, to 1 part lacquer thinner.
How To Amalgamate a Damaged Lacquer or Shellac Finish
Time Needed :24 hours
How-to Amalgamate a Damaged Lacquer or Shellac Finish
Clean the area thoroughly.
Use mineral spirits to ensure removal of any waxes.
Using a 100% clean, new, natural bristle paint brush soaked in solvent, apply to surface.
Apply it to the finish in long strokes, working with the grain.
Go over the damaged area 1-3 times in long strokes.
Work quickly, and don't let your brush dry out. Try not to focus too much on individual spots, or you'll end up removing the finish.
Allow to dry for 30 minutes or more. The surface should look dull, not glossy.
As the finish dries, most of the cracks will disappear on their own. You may need to repeat the process again to remove them all.
If damages are still visible, repeat steps 2-4 until your finish is solid and smooth.
Use only a small amount of the solvent, and try your best not to remove more of the finish in the process.
Once all marks have been removed, allow the finish to dry until it’s no longer glossy. Then lightly buff the surface with 0000 steel wool.
Working with the grain, with medium to heavy pressure.
If the finish seems thin, you may want to apply another coat of the same finish on top. Just clean the surface well with a tack cloth before applying.
Once the second coat dries, again, buff it with 0000 steel wool.
Finally, wax the surface with a hard paste wax and clean cloth.
You can stick with the steel wool for this as well if you'd like, I usually switch over to a nice cloth. It's easier for buffing in small circular motions without worrying about scratches.
0000 Steel Wool
Brand New Natural Bristle Paintbrush
Denatured Alcohol/Lacquer Thinner
It may seem simple, but amalgamation takes some serious practice for a nice end result.
If several amalgamation attempts don’t remove the damages to your piece, then the damage is probably to the wood itself.
Meaning you’ll need to completely refinish it and repair the wood, before reapplying your stain and finish.
As I said earlier, if your piece has varnish or polyurethane on it, amalgamation won’t work.
These reactive finishes can only be overcoated to hide the damages to them. You can do small areas on the piece, or the entire surface.
Overcoating small areas on a piece is sometimes much more difficult than overcoating the entire surface.
If you choose to repair only a small spot or multiple small spots, you will have to get it to blend in with the finish that’s already on the piece.
Clean the area with mineral spirits, or denatured alcohol to remove wax and dirt. Then lightly scuff it up with fine grit sandpaper, or 0000 steel wool.
If you’re dealing with scratches that are right at the top of the finish, and don’t go very deep at all, steel wool would be the better choice for you.
It’s easy to go too deep through the finish to the wood –which you don’t want to do– so sand very lightly if you plan to only do a few small spots instead of the whole surface.
Whatever finish your piece originally had, you will need to reapply the same finish on top of it.
Varnish must be overcoated with varnish, polyurethane must be overcoated with polyurethane (water or oil).
One thing that you can change to make it easier for yourself, is to make your varnish or poly wipe-on capable, by thinning it. You can purchase it, or make your own for much cheaper!
Wiping varnish/poly is much easier to apply for a smooth finish than brushing varnish/poly.
Wiping varnish/poly is thinner than brushing varnish/poly so you’ll need to put on more coats when wiping it on. But I personally think that the ease of application makes up for that little fact.
All you need to do to turn your varnish or poly into a wiping version is mix in some mineral spirits if it’s oil-based, or mix in water if it’s water-based.
A mixture 50/50 for the first couple of coats works perfectly. For your final coat, you may want to thicken it up to 2 parts varnish/poly to 1 part mineral spirits/water. This will make the final coat thicker and stronger.
How To Repair a Damaged Polyurethane or Varnish Finish
1- Clean the entire surface with mineral spirits and a clean rag to remove any wax or dirt.
2- Lightly sand/scuff the entire area that you plan to apply a new coat on. Use a fine-grit sandpaper 320 or higher. This will give the new coat something to grab onto and may blend in some of the surface scratches you’re trying to repair.
3 – Wipe all of the dust off of the surface, make sure you get everything before applying your first coat. Try not to blow the dust into the air around your workspace if possible.
4 – Pour wiping poly/varnish onto the surface, and spread it over the area using a dry cloth.
Once the surface is well moistened, use another dry cloth and lightly wipe off any excess poly/varnish from the surface. Don’t apply any pressure to the surface, just lightly dab the excess off.
5 – Let that first coat dry for at least 4 hours.
6 – Lightly sand off any dust nibs or bubbles out of the first coat with 600-grit sandpaper. I recommend using a wet/dry sandpaper lubricated with water for this. Otherwise, the dried finish will build upon your paper pretty much instantly, causing even more damage to your finish. Once your sandpaper gets that dry finish build-up, stop!
If not, you’re bound to create scratches in the finish you’re trying to repair.
1-2 passes with the sandpaper in hand is usually sufficient. You’ll be able to feel the roughness with your hand. Once it’s nice and smooth you’re good.
7 – Wipe off any dust with a tack cloth or you can suck it up with a vacuum. Again, avoid the dust getting into the air you’re working in.
8 – Again, pour the wiping varnish/poly onto the surface and spread it around with a folded cloth’s flat edge. Leave a little more on the surface this time than the first coat.
Continue levelling it with the folded cloth, and don’t wipe with the dry cloth this time. Be sure to get it as thin and level as you can.
You can remove any excess slightly with a dry cloth, but then continue spreading with the folded cloth.
9 – Allow the coat to dry overnight, or at least 4-6 hours.
10 – Repeat steps 6-9 until the area matches it’s surrounding areas’ thicknesses, or you are satisfied with the thickness.
11 – The final result should be glossy. If the existing finish doesn’t match that, you can use 0000 steel wool to dull the surface, and buff with paste wax to reach the desired sheen.
And there we have it! I know I haven’t even come close to covering it all when it comes to repairing damaged wood finishes, but for now, I’ll stop here.
Lacquer, Shellac, Polyurethane, and Varnish are 4 products that come up on a day-to-day basis while refinishing furniture. All 4 are great in their own way, but not perfect that’s for sure! Hopefully, I’ve shared with you some knowledge that will help you with future wood finish repairs.
I know a lot of people that jump immediately into completely refinishing a piece of furniture when the surface finish is scratched. That’s fine, but I wanted people to know there is an easier, cheaper, and faster way. No matter the finish!
Do you know of any repair tricks for lacquer, shellac, polyurethane, or varnish? Please comment away I would love to hear them!
Be sure to join my mailing list for future posts on wood finishes. I’ll be covering how to achieve a perfect finish with all 4 of the finishes I spoke about today, next month!
Hello everyone, happy fall! I’m excited to tell you all about my newest furniture paint discovery. 🙂 As you all know I am an avid user of Chalk Paint & Milk Paint when painting my furniture. But I think I have finally found something better!!
It’s called MudPaint, and I honestly don’t think I will ever go back to chalk paint for painting furniture. Which– if you know me –is a BIG deal, because my (personal) discovery of chalk paint was pretty groundbreaking as well.
NOW I wish that I had learned about MudPaint sooner. It sticks to surfaces even better than chalk paint, without the brush marks, and chalky residue. MudPaint is actually clay-based, so it has a thick, rich, and creamy consistency, making it spread smooth like butter!
What Makes MudPaint the Furniture Painter’s Paint?
MudPaint was established in 2014 by a husband & wife team of experienced furniture painters. According to them, they ‘wanted to create paint with better coverage and finish than any other paint on the market. So they decided to create a clay-based paint, which was exactly that.
All of their eco-friendly paints are made right here in the USA with low VOC, and all natural pigments & dyes. They mix the MudPaint in small batches, hand-fill and label each container at the time of order. That, to me, means a lot. You’ll always be getting a fresh batch of thick and creamy paint!
MudPaint is water-based, so it’s easy to clean-up brushes, sponges, or rollers with soap & water. Latex and oil-based paints are never good for me and my paintbrushes. I’m sure many of you can agree! So easy clean-up is another must when it comes to picking a paint.
Let’s See MudPaint in Action!
MudPaint will stick to virtually anything! So showing just a plain old piece of wood furniture probably won’t convince many people of its amazing adhesion. So, instead, I’ll be using a couple of old, weathered, clay pots that have been waiting for paint for quite some time.
The pots are super old and cracked, but I think they’re just beautiful. I plan to use them in my garden as decorative pieces, most likely won’t be putting plants inside them. So I didn’t worry about sealing them inside or out. If you do paint pots like these and intend to fill them with plants, I’d recommend waterproofing them– inside and out –first.
Without the sealer, it would normally take quite a bit of paint to cover these things completely. The surface is very porous, so it soaks up paint like nothing!
Not MudPaint though!
Once again, the above is after only 1 coat of MudPaint! I was amazed at how well it stuck to the clay pots. But considering it’s clay-based, it makes sense!
I painted the white on top and bottom after the first coat dried on both pots. Even painting China White over the Deep Navy MudPaint was easy! Which is pretty rare.
A second coat is pretty much always necessary when using white over a dark color. Not with MudPaint!
The video below shows how easily the Navy Blue was covered by China White.
MudPaint’s incredible coverage, no matter the color, makes it an easy choice for painting furniture.
These 2 large clay pots were painted completely, with 3 different colors, in about 2 hours. The first coat was dry in under an hour. Yet another awesome feature of MudPaint.
Dry time is lightning fast!
Meaning you can get to the fun part even faster. Distressing, and waxing! I used a piece of sandpaper to slightly distress the pots, which was a cinch.
No giant cloud of dust surrounding you after you distress either. That was always a pain when using chalk paint. I usually resorted to wet distressing due to that fact. But it’s not necessary when you paint with MudPaint.
MudPaint also offers its own line of furniture waxes, paintbrushes, and a clear coat.
Their finishing products are sourced from a small-batch, 5th-generation family-run shop located in small-town Wales, UK. The black, clear, and dark finishing waxes are sold exclusively by MudPaint. Plus– my new favorite —Metallic Waxes, in gold and silver! These add the perfect touch of sparkle to your piece. I may go a bit metallic crazy now that I’ve got these waxes.
Of course, I threw the gold metallic wax on my 2 clay pots, just because.
I love MudPaint’s products so much, I decided to become a retailer & share them with all of you!
Up until now, the KRay Custom Refinish shop has only sold refinished furniture pieces.
Head over to my shop, and check out all the lovely products I’ve added!
With 29 MudPaint colors, each with 3 sizes available; there’s something for every furniture painter! I’ll also be carrying MudPaint’s finishing products and paintbrushes. I’m so excited for my readers to try them out, I’m offering a FREE SAMPLE to all of my subscribers!
Join the list below to get in on the MudPaint goodness.
Already tried MudPaint? Please, tell me what you think!
I’ll be painting many more projects with MudPaint coming up soon. Be sure to check back in and see the beautifully painted pieces.
Until Next Time,
PS – USE COUPON CODE MPO50 AT CHECKOUT TO RECEIVE $10.00 OFF ANY ORDERS OF MUDPAINT PRODUCTS $50.00 AND OVER!
How To Paint Particle Board Furniture After You’ve Removed the Wood Veneer Top… I know this is a super-specific topic that probably isn’t the smartest “blog-traffic” move according to many.
But, I found ZERO help online with this exact problem a few months ago. Therefore, I will now, be the ONE post on how to paint particle board furniture! And hopefully help a couple (literally), people.
So, you may or may not have read my post on Restoring Wood Veneer Furniture. If not, check it out and learn the ultimate method for removing veneer, (if you haven’t removed it already that is.)
So, you’ve removed the wood veneer, and it turns out, your piece is not 100% hardwood as you originally had hoped.
Uh-oh. Now what? Toss it? Re-veneer it? (haha, good luck with that.)
Now, in my Restoring Wood Veneer Furniture post, I explain ways to ensure that your piece is hardwood BEFORE you remove the veneer. I thought those methods were foolproof but, of course, nothing ever is when it comes to furniture restoration you’ll come to learn.
So do not feel bad if this has happened to you!
I was tricked into removing the veneer on the coffee table I was working on recently, because all 4 edges of the table were in fact, hardwood.
The particle board was wrapped in 2”x 4”s of pine.
Once I had removed enough veneer from the top to allow the particle board to show, it was too late. No going back on that one, unfortunately.
So, I finished removing the rest of the veneer…
And afterward, the table sat in my garage, untouched, for a couple of months…**crickets**
I stopped Scott from bringing it to the dump a few times.
Although I had no idea what I was going to do with the table, I just knew that I couldn’t toss it.
As I say on my Meet Kray Page; ‘Saving Wood Furniture Lives is of the Utmost Importance to Me. Nothing is ever too far gone in my book.’
I just couldn’t go back on that because of a tiny bit of particle board, could I?
Don’t get me wrong, there are some 95% particle board, 5% wood veneer pieces, that aren’t worth your time.
But this piece wasn’t one of them. It was a solid table, made completely of hardwood other than this one area in the center.
So you’ll have to use your judgment on the piece you’re working on. If it’s a complete particle board desk with fake wood laminate on top- don’t bother.
If the piece is 75% hardwood or more, I’d say it’s acceptable as a quality piece.
Which means it’d be acceptable for my new “paint particle board furniture technique.” Hooray!
You’ll want to remove any wood veneer covering the particle board on your piece if you plan to paint it.
Once the veneer and any glues have been removed, sand down the area with a fine-grit sandpaper. 180-220 grit would be best.
If you have an air compressor (definitely preferred), blow off as much dust as you can, especially in the crevices of the particle board.
The most important part of this technique is to get the surface as flat as possible.
Particle board is made from compressed wood chips, flakes, or shavings. They are tightly compressed and then bonded together with a resin. This means it will have a lot of tiny divots, cracks, and holes throughout.
To paint the piece, without it being obvious that it’s particle board, we will need to fill those cracks as well as we can.
I chose to fill these divots with paint because I planned to use them to my advantage in the style of the piece.
You can also use a putty, or wood filler if you’d prefer. I’d recommend Durham’s Water Putty if you go this route.
If you choose to use paint go with thicker paint if possible. You’ll be using a putty knife to apply it, so it makes it a little easier to work with.
Use the same paint color you plan to use for the entire piece, or a different color to create a layered look.
Using a putty knife, slowly work the paint (or putty) into the crevices, and try to even it out with the rest of the piece. It doesn’t have to be perfect, you’ll be sanding off most of it anyways.
As the first coat dries, it’ll settle into the cracks. So you’ll have to apply a second coat in the same way.
Make sure you press lightly because it’s easy to push the paint back out of the cracks as well when you’re applying it.
Once that dries, lightly sand again with a 220 grit or higher.
I used 400 grit just to be safe. You only want the paint off of the top of the piece, but left in the divots.
Again it doesn’t have to be perfect. If some spots aren’t filled, they can hold dark wax at the end.
After sanding the top, again use your air compressor to clean out the crevices and remove as much dust as possible.
You’ll be staining the top next.
Choose a darker stain. It won’t be absorbed very well.
Apply it as you would for regular hardwood. Using a lint-free cloth, wipe it onto the particle board. Let it sit for as long as possible before wiping the excess.
As you can see, the stain didn’t absorb much but darkened parts and brought out the painted crevices.
The oil-based stain also seals the entire piece nicely to ensure the next coats of paint adhere to the piece well.
From here, you have a choice to make. I decided to turn this table into a faux barn door, meaning I had to measure out the lines and create faux wood boards.
On some parts of the boards, I layered paint colors over one another to add to the aged look.
On some parts of the boards, I layered stain colors over one another to create the aged look.
You may choose to do both as well, or only one of these, it’s up to you.
Check out my paint distressing techniques post with info on layering paint colors over one another.
Wood Staining Steps For Painting Particleboard Furniture
Use the dark stain from the beginning of this process, and find another mid-tone stain to use as well. On each “board”, alternate between dark and medium stain. One dark, one light, one dark, one light.
You’ll need to do a couple of coats for the particleboard to finally accept the stain (for the most part).
After the final coat of paint or stain dries, apply a thin coat of white paint.
Slowly drag a wire brush from end to end of the piece, leaving lines in the paint similar to wood grain. Use your own discretion here, but you can scrape as much off as you think looks good.
This is just a good way to tie everything together and disguise the particleboard even more. Be sure to be as light with the wire brush as possible as the particleboard is pretty easy to scrape off too.
If you haven’t noticed yet, I changed things on this table about a million times. The first time I free-handed the lines for the barn door, and they were 100% WRONG. (I’m seriously embarrassed posting the picture of how wrong :-P) My “spatial analysis” is apparently non-existent.
But in the end, it actually benefited the look of the piece. All of the layered paint colors look awesome, and they help easily convince people that it’s an old door having been repainted over the years. Which was exactly what I was going for.
Only parts of the layering weren’t sanded off in my fix for the faux barn door, but I used the wood staining steps on those spots and it tied together beautifully in the end :).
After Wood Stains & Paints Dried, Apply a Thin Layer of Paint Over The Entire Piece
Let this thin layer completely dry. Don’t worry, I know, it looks scary!
Use a fine grit sandpaper, or finishing pad like this:
I hope that this helped you if you made a huge uh-oh removing wood veneer as I did. I definitely had to try quite a few different tactics before creating that beautiful table out of a yuck particle board piece. And I wished there was a tutorial like this one to help me!
So you’re welcome to those (2?) people that needed this post 🙂
Today, I’ll be covering the best paintbrushes for refinishing furniture, the best cheap paints for refinishing furniture, the best wood stains for refinishing furniture, the best topcoats for refinishing furniture, and the best waxes for refinishing furniture.
Once again, most of the products on my list can be found at Hardwareworld.com for incredible prices. The few items that are not stocked by Hardwareworld.com, I searched for the best pricing to share with you! Most items can also be found at your local hardware store as well.
So let’s get to it!
Table of Contents
The Best Cheap Paintbrushes for Refinishing Furniture
When I found this paintbrush on Hardwareworld.com, for this price… I was shocked. I paid A LOT more for one of these paintbrushes, and I treat the thing like my baby. I absolutely love it.
I do believe it’s more for professional house painters than furniture painting, but I just don’t care! The brush’s oval shape is perfect for holding tons of paint without dripping. It’s skinny enough to fit in tight areas, and slanted for a perfect line. The Picasso is just the perfect name for it because you really do feel like an artist with it in your hand!
You may not always need to use this brush for furniture. But, you’ll be happy you have it at times, that is for sure.
They also have a chiseled wedge brush that is incredible for flat surfaces or trims. They’ve pretty much thought of everything when it comes to painting furniture…painting anything honestly! Hence why I love them!
Plus, they sent me this amazing item called the Open It! As a Xmas present last year.
I’ve got to say it may have been my favorite present of all that year. It came in SO handy for opening all of Alice’s toys on Christmas morning that is for sure! There’s nothing it can’t help you open! (Not exactly a paintbrush but I just had to throw it in here.)
These are my favorite Chalk Paint and Wax Brushes. They’re easy to find at your local Home Depot, but I honestly think I use them more than any specialty brushes I’ve tried so far.
The Chalk Paint Brush holds tons of paint and leaves a smooth perfect finish. I’ve had it for about a year now, and use it rather frequently. It still paints as nicely as the first day I got it.
Most paintbrushes will last as long as you treat them well, and clean them out promptly. (I won’t lie, I have been known to leave a brush or two to harden oops.) But even so, the Behr Chalk Paint Brush has always snapped back to life after a bit of soaking.
A tip for saving your forgotten/hard as rock paintbrushes:
Try a fabric softener or laundry detergent soak. Leave the hardened brush in a 50/50 mix of hot water and 1 of those for a day or so. Rinse it thoroughly, run a Brush Comb Cleanup Tool like this:
(or a fork) through the brush, and it should come back to life for you!
If after a couple of days the bristles still won’t budge, refresh the mix with super hot water, a bit of Dawn dish detergent, and fabric softener for another 24 hours. Hopefully, that should be enough! If not, unfortunately, you may be out of luck 🙁
I wouldn’t recommend leaving paintbrushes in laundry detergent or softener for longer than 3 days. After that, you risk releasing the glue that holds the bristles in, and the brush will be junk either way.
The Best Cheap Paints for Refinishing Furniture
Now of course I need to start out with my favorite furniture paint: MudPaint.
You just can’t be $13.00 for 30oz of Chalk Paint. Rustoleum is one of the first brands I tried when I started painting furniture. Yes, there are lots of awesome expensive chalk paints that you could purchase. I honestly don’t see a huge difference between those paints and the cheap ones.
FolkArt’s Chalk Paints are another one of my favorites. I purchased some from a local craft store, and it really impressed me! It covers great, sometimes with only 1 coat. It’s definitely on the cheaper side for chalk paints. Michaels had the cheapest price I found with tons of color options!
Folkart Home Decor Chalk Paint By Folk Art in Milk Jug | 8 oz | Michaels
My third choice for the best cheap chalk paint would be Waverly Inspirations line of amazing chalk paints and waxes. They have every color under the sun, and you only need to buy what you plan to use.
They have tiny sizes for small projects or larger tubs for big projects. Some of the unique colors you’d never use a giant amount of at once. So it’s definitely nice to have the option of just a tiny container for 2-4 dollars.
The Chalk-Tique Powder was one of the products I was most excited about finding on Hardwareworld.com. I was given some of this by a friend recently, and I fell in love!
You can basically turn any old water-based paint into chalk paint in minutes! Not just any chalk paint, but awesome chalk paint. It sticks to furniture like glue; dries quickly and smoothly.
Mix the Chalk-tique Powder with water, and then add it to your paint. Super simple, and in my opinion, better than trying to make the chalk paint yourself. If you’re anything like me, it’s a lot easier to buy a sure thing than try to mess around with mixing several things yourself. It just doesn’t turn out well.
They also have great light and dark wax that I’ll show you later on in the topcoats section.
The Best Cheap Milk Paints for Refinishing Furniture
Just like I love their chalk paint, I love their milk paint. It spreads as smoothly as a stain but dries to a dead flat finish. Superfast! Plaid’s 6.8 oz “milk jug” bottles are the perfect amount for a small project, for cheap!
While it wasn’t one of my choices for the best paintbrush for refinishing furniture, I had to throw Plaid’s Milk Paint paintbrush in here. The natural hog bristles are perfect for holding milk paint and releasing it uniformly. If you have trouble with brush marks while using milk paint, definitely try this paintbrush.
Patina Green Milk Paint Water Based Pint
General Finishes Milk Paint is a bit more pricey than the rest of the milk paints on my list, but it definitely shows through on your end product. It’s a quality, thick milk paint that levels out amazingly. It’s pretty difficult to have brush marks showing after using this paint.
One thing I love about this paint is that it’s interior/exterior, which a lot of these paints are not. This is definitely a bonus when painting outdoor furniture.
The Best Cheap Wood Stains for Refinishing Furniture
No matter what, if you don’t sand your wood furniture correctly or prepare the wood for staining correctly, you’ll have a difficult time getting a good end result. But Zar Wood Stain actually makes me think you could get away with just an okay job on that part, and still end up with a great stained piece! (Not recommending that at all, but still.)
It’s controlled penetration creates a smooth, uniform stain every time. And you can use it on metal too!
There’s not much I can say about Minwax Wood Stain. It’s the tried and true stain that obviously popular for a reason. It works great, but you definitely want to be sure to prepare the wood surface well before using it.
Before heading to your usual hardware store to purchase it, check out the pricing at Hardwareworld.com, it’s cheap!
Colonial Maple Gel Stain Solvent Based Pint
General Finishes has amazing wood stains as well. I prefer their gel stain for furniture refinishing. If you’re looking for something super thick, almost paint-like, this is your stain.
Although it is a gel stain, you can also apply it like a regular stain by wiping it on and off. This way, you will see more wood grain than other gel stains. Otherwise, use a paintbrush and brush it on like paint to get the darkest end result possible.
The Best Cheap Top Coats for Refinishing Furniture
Even if your piece is going to be used inside only, you may benefit from using an exterior topcoat. It couldn’t hurt, right? If you plan to sell your piece, you never know what a customer plans to do with it. Even if you plan to keep it yourself, being able to bring it outside without worry is always a nice bonus.
Plus water spills and sun damage happen inside all the time! Exterior polyurethane like this Zar Water Base Exterior Poly will save your wood piece from accidents, and last much longer than regular polyurethanes.
It does dry with a light amber finish due to the radiation absorbers for UV protection, so keep that in mind before choosing this as a topcoat for your piece.
Another great choice for a top coat on your interior or exterior pieces is this Spar Varnish. For the same reason, I recommended Zar’s Exterior Polyurethane. This stuff is meant for use on salt-water boats, so you know it’s tough!
Last but not least for topcoats other than wax to use over chalk paint, stain, or milk paint; is Rustoleum’s Chalked Protective Topcoat. I love this over chalk paint because it is a seriously clear matte finish. It’s as close as you can get to an invisible finish.
A lot of topcoats will change the color or look of the chalk paint slightly, no matter how clear they say it is. This stuff works great though, and it lasts longer than waxes which have to be reapplied after awhile.
You can go one better, and use this protective topcoat before you apply your wax. It’s practically invisible, so you won’t see a huge change in the look once waxed. If your piece is going to get a lot of use, this is a great solution to reapplying wax every so often.
On my latest Faux Barn Door Coffee Table, I used the protective topcoat and then applied clear and dark wax. It just gives me a bit of peace of mind when I plan on selling a piece that will be used frequently.
These paste waxes are a favorite for me when working with chalk paint. It’s a blend of beeswax, Brazilian carnauba wax, and orange oil. Carnauba wax is great because it’s finish is hard, and not sticky or tacky.
The harder the finish, the better the protection. The beeswax helps soften it slightly for easier application. And the orange oil gives it just a slightly oily sheen for a gorgeous finish.
Another Howard product that I love! This one I wouldn’t recommend using over paint. It’s great for wood furniture that needs to be conditioned. Plus it also has carnauba wax so it offers strong protection as well. It brings the color out in the wood beautifully. After applying you will need to buff it similar to other waxes used over chalk or milk paint.
American Decor waxes are great for beginners at furniture waxing. Most waxes are on the thicker side, which makes them more difficult to work with. These waxes are thinner and much easier to apply. I definitely recommend coating with the clear wax first if you plan on antiquing your piece.
If you don’t apply the antiquing wax perfectly the first time, it has a tendency to appear blotchy on the piece. Otherwise, I’d recommend using a glaze by adding mineral spirits. Check out my Antique Wax Glaze on Chalk Paint post for complete instructions on that.
Although I have yet to try Behr’s Chalk Paint, I love their Chalk Paint Brushes and their Decorative Waxes. Compared to the two I mentioned above, Behr’s Waxes are more solid, and more of a wax texture. Using one of their wax brushes it goes on smooth and silky, but hardens and buffs with a nice satin sheen that I love. I definitely recommend for an intermediate furniture painter.
And With that, I’ll conclude my list of the best cheap paints for refinishing furniture & more
Whether you’re a seasoned pro, or just starting out in refinishing furniture, I hope that you found my choices for the best cheap paints, stains, waxes, and paintbrushes helpful on your journey! Please let me know if you think I’ve missed a product, or know of something new I should try. I’m always open to trying new products for refinishing furniture!
After over a year running this blog, I’m happy to finally present you with my “Best of the Best list”. The Best Tools For Refinishing Furniture and much, much, more.
Creating this list only now has given me time to test out many different products in my day-to-day furniture refinishing business, and can personally name EVERY item on this list, as the best. I will proudly say that I have ZERO reservations, recommending any of the items on it.
One of the most important things for me; and many others I’m sure, is the price of the items I recommend.
I personally, am a fan of furniture restoration products on the cheaper side, that are still quality items.
That may not be as important to some people, so I’ve got a bit of both mixed in. BUT I am super excited because I recently found a website that made all of my cheap dreams come true!
It is a secure, reputable, online shop, so as long as you are comfortable with purchasing products online, this place is perfect.
Hardwareworld.com has over 40,000 items at amazingly low prices, including specialty tools, and hard to find items. (I found almost every item on my list easily.)
All products ship from Kansas, Mon-Fri, and most orders ship the same day if placed before 12 pm. They have a 30-day refund policy, PLUS no tax! (except WA)
I’m from New Hampshire where there is also no sales tax, but I know that’s a big deal to people who are not from a no sales tax state. Right??
Obviously these products are available at your local hardware store as well, so feel free to purchase them there.
But cost-wise, be sure to check out the link I’ve attached to each of the products below.
So, skip ahead to what you’re really looking for, or read through ’em all! And don’t worry, I’ll be adding to these whenever I discover an item worthy of The Best of the Best Tools for Refinishing Furniture List.
In my post How to Sand Wood Furniture, I mentioned my favorite sander at the time, the Ridgid 5″ Orbital Sander, which is still a great sander as well definitely! I was recently upgraded to the Makita 5″, and it was just that; an upgrade.
A few bonuses such as the dust collection bag setup is much easier, it’s way quieter, and seems a bit more powerful.
No matter the brand, a 5″ Orbital Sander will be one of your most-used tools when refinishing furniture.
With the right grit sandpaper, (we’ll get to sandpaper next) a 5″ orbital can handle basically, any job. Whether you’re removing paint from a wood piece, smoothing out repairs, or even distressing fresh paint; the Makita 5″ Orbital Sander is your best bet, in my opinion.
There are a couple of instances in which you may not want to use the orbit sander, and so, these next 2 sanders will cover those for you 🙂
Occasionally while working on furniture, you may need something stronger than the orbital sander. If you need to level off a tabletop, or if you’re working on a wood veneer covered piece, you may decide that it’s easiest to sand straight through it to the hardwood.
That’s when you grab the belt sander. For me, personally, the Skil Brand Belt Sander is one of the only belt sanders I can actually use easily. It’s 3” x 18”, where most are 3” x 21”, or even 4” x 24”.
I’m a pretty small woman. I’m stronger than I look with all the DIY tasks I do every day, but I can barely hold the 3” x 21” Black & Decker Scott uses. When you’re using the belt sander you want to be sure you can keep it balanced and even across the flat surface you’re working on.
With a low enough grit, (even with a higher grit), belt sanders will remove a serious amount of wood rather quickly if you’re not careful. So for a smaller, lighter belt sander, I definitely recommend the Skil Brand Belt Sander.
¼ Sheet Palm Sanders come in handy for finishing off sanding a piece. I normally go Belt Sander (roughest grit)– Orbital Sander — Palm Sander — and then quickly hand sand with the finest grit sandpaper/sponge.
The only reason I don’t stick with the orbital sander until the end is the chance of getting those little circles/swirls (ugh) we’ve all gotten from the orbital sander. The palm sander will smooth those right out, and if you happen to miss anything, the quick hand sanding I’ll be talking about next will get it.
I absolutely LOVE this little hand sander, I use it for everything! It’s super soft/spongy, so it fits perfectly in your hand, and into all those little crevices you’ll find when working with furniture.
This kit comes with 10 sheets of 80, 120, and 220 grit sandpaper with hook and loop attachment which is awesome. But when you get in a bind and only have say round sandpaper left over, you can easily cut it and attach it to this. (I’ve even used a full circle sheet on it to get the sidewall of a cabinet once, worked great.)
Plastic Sandpaper Holder Sanding Bock ~ 4.5″ x 5″ Sheet
A Sandpaper holder like this one is also a great thing to have (I know, how many do I really need? Right?) But, I use every one of these multiple times a day. You just never know which situation you’ll need which for, but trust me, it’s always nice to have options.
You can use any grit sandpaper on this, and it needs to be the non-hook-and-loop type you’ll find in large sheets. This way you can cut the sheets to the size you need, and get a lot more out of 1 sheet.
These sponges are perfect for distressing paint. You can get them, and use for either wet distress, or paint layering without taking off too much paint. They’re for sanding table legs, spindles, and other contoured areas, so they are super bendable, which I love.
They don’t last forever, but you can definitely get quite a few uses out of them by washing and reusing them after they dry. After a while, they’ll get a little flimsy, and you’ll know it’s time to toss them. They’re pretty cheap, and you can usually find multipacks as well.
The 3M Sandblaster Flex Sponge is the sponge to use if you’re trying to remove paint by sanding. They are made for exactly that, so they don’t get clogged like normal sanding sponges.
They’re also super flexible, but they’re 1” thick, so they last quite a while. You can wash and reuse these as well, so if it does end up getting clogged after a while, you can just rinse it out and go at it again!
Scotch-Brite General Purpose Scouring Pads ~ Approx 6″ x 9″
These aren’t exactly sandpaper, but I threw them in because I use them pretty often for finish work. When you’re using a water-based top coat, you don’t want to use steel wool because it will rust and ruin your paint or stain job.
So I began using these scouring pads instead; I never went back to steel wool after that! They work great for between coats of polyurethane to knock off those rough spots without scratching the surface or grinding down the finish. They’re almost foolproof, definitely check them out if you normally go with steel wool.
The Diablo brand is definitely my first choice when I’m buying sanding discs. They just seem to be the strongest out of the many different brands I’ve tried.
Especially the lower grit discs- they eat away at the wood like nothing! They last way longer than other brands, and don’t clog as easily with paint or stain.
I actually had a Diablo Disc the other day; the red side was still like new, but the hook and loop side gave out. I’d taken it on and off the sander so many times, that it lost it’s hook (or loop?) and kept falling off. When the sanding side outlasts the hook and loop – that’s pretty impressive if you ask me.
For Sandpaper Sheets I’d go for 3M, the Pro-Grade No-Slip sheets are my favorite. They stay put on the palm sander and the sanding block. Or you can use it on its own with no worries. They last quite a while and don’t tear easily like a lot of other brands I’ve tried.
There’s nothing worse than cutting your sandpaper, putting it on the sander or block, and ripping it right when you tighten it down. Ugh, no fun.
The Best Paint Stripping or Veneer Removal Tools for Refinishing Furniture
For my Stripping Paint Post, I tested several methods for stripping paint to see which worked best, and found that these “Sanding Discs” were actually one of the easiest ways to strip paint from furniture!
They attach to a drill, so you would need a power drill of some kind (I talk about my favorite here) to attach these to. But as long as you have one, they really work great! They are apparently meant to be used on contoured surfaces. But I’ve used them on non-contoured surfaces and they work fine.
I’d kind of agree with sticking to contour surfaces only because it’s pretty easy to go too deep and cut into the wood while using them. If you’re working on an expensive antique piece, that doesn’t exactly work. But after practicing a bit, you can get pretty decent at scraping the paint off without gouging the wood.
While I’m on the subject of removing veneer, and the 11 in 1 tool; a mallet is definitely helpful with that tactic. I used a hammer for a long time, but I’m sure you can see the dangers in that to your hands.
I learned after a bit that the mallet works just as well, without the occasional damage. It’s also useful for a lot of other things. You don’t always want a hammer when you’re working with delicate furniture pieces.
The torch I linked to is an amazing torch that I personally spent a lot more on than it’s listed for on Hardwareworld.com. (I seriously wish I had learned about this site sooner.) They have MAP//Pro torches available as well.
Not for stripping paint, but for stripping stains, I definitely recommend Minwax’s Furniture Refinisher. On the rare occasions that you can’t just sand down the stain on a wooden piece, this is your product.
It uses natural oils to safely remove wood stain, varnish, shellac, lacquer, or any other old finish that has built-up over time on wood furniture. It does not remove paint or polyurethane.
When using the chemical strippers like Jasco, other than the normal scrapers I brought up earlier, I love using the Nylon Paint Stripper Brush as well.
The nylon brush works great on wood that you really don’t want to scratch or damage with the putty knives or 6 in 1 tool. I’d recommend using it with the Antique Furniture Refinisher as well. It will remove the paint or stain gently and without scratches or gouges.
You can also use stripping pads like these to remove the paint from wood without scratching. They do sell plastic holders with handles that attach to pads like these to protect you from the stripper itself. But you should be wearing thick protective gloves either way!
Use it as a sanding sponge and it will lift the paint right off after it’s been soaking in paint stripper for a while.
The Best Wood Furniture Repair Products & Tools for Refinishing Furniture
If you plan on doing repairs to wood furniture, the Kreg Jig is an absolute must-have. Its a tool used to create pocket holes when you’re connecting two pieces of wood. Since the It strengthens the joint or crack. I’ve used a Kreg Jig fixing a cracked dining chair seat, broken drawers in an old dresser, and a standalone cabinet shelf.
J-B Weld has come in handy multiple times trying to repair some furniture pieces. If you have a hole to fill on a metal bedframe perhaps, I would definitely go J-B Weld over Bondo. It depends on the application, but J-B works on multiple surfaces beyond metal. It’s also sandable, drillable, and filed after it cures.
For larger wood furniture repairs, such as a complete corner missing, or spots that need to be remolded, I’d go with Bondo Body Filler. Not the wood filler- the one with the car on the front.
It’s easy to shape and mold to match another piece on the piece perhaps, and it will last. You would want to paint over it, I don’t think stain would work great over Bondo. But it’s easily hidden with some paint.
I use this putty over any other when filling small cracks or holes in wood. It comes in powder form and you can use as much or as little as you need. Just slowly add water to it until it’s the consistency you need and spread it. It hardens fast, and will not budge from there.
I have mixed wood stain with this putty before applying it to disguise the normal white color and it works great. The filled spot will be a bit darker than the rest of the piece but usually blends right in.
Teaching me on my first furniture repair, Scott brought out the Pin Nailer and I fell in love. I just love the sound of the nail gun that’s probably just me. But I felt super cool using it.
It shoots tiny headless pin nails into the wood that are almost invisible. They’re great added strength to a repair, and after painting, you can’t even tell they’re there.
You do need an air compressor to use a nail gun like this, along with a ton of other tools, so it may be a purchase you want to think about if you don’t already have one.
This air compressor is fantastic. Scott has had it for years, and I’ve never heard an air compressor so quiet. Most of them are awful when they refill, super loud, and not great for an apartment or sleeping child!
So, if you need something quiet I will personally vouch for this one. 100 percent.
It’s supposedly “portable” but unless you can easily “port” 150 lbs, I wouldn’t quite call it that. But it’s small so you shouldn’t need to move it much. Definite plus!
If you don’t use a power drill too often like me, this is a great, cheap little drill to have. It’s cordless and pivots to different directions, which works out perfectly in the tight corners of a cabinet or drawer.
It also has a built-in light which I love. They should really put lights on more things! I certainly love being able to see when I’m working on something!
For something a little stronger, any of the Dewalt kits would do. I, of course, like the compact version, but any of them would do. The batteries are all interchangeable with other cordless Dewalt products, such as their nailgun, router, and saws.
Depending on your work area, you may not have the need for extra lighting. My garage is definitely a mostly dark workspace, so some serious LED lighting is necessary.
This dual-head setup works nicely, as most of the time while sanding, staining, etc, you want your lighting to go across your workspace, rather than right above it.
You can set the height easily on the tripod the lights set on, with an easy to adjust the head angle on both sides. The lights are also a neutral white 4000K color so it won’t affect your view of paint colors or stains while you work. For something on a smaller budget, the halogen version is a bit cheaper.
Shop Vacs are always a great thing to have in a workshop, especially if you do a lot of sanding. Which as a furniture refinisher, I definitely spend most of my time sanding.
Most sanders can be hooked directly to your Shop-vac hose which helps eliminate dust on everything. This Shop-vac is the perfect size for lightweight use and can hang on the wall out of the way. It’s also pretty cheap for a Shop-vac, which is always a bonus!
Working with antique furniture, there’s nothing safer than knowing whether or not you’re working with lead paint. These instant lead test swabs work great.
Once you know lead or not lead, you can go from there on which safety precautions you need to take.
These respirators from 3M have been my go-to for a while now. They seem to be sold out due to Covid-19 at the moment but they are usually easy to find. They are disposable but they hold up for quite a while under light use.
“They are NIOSH-Approved N95 for at Least 95 Percent Filtration Efficiency Against Certain Non-Oil-Based Particles and Aerosols, so you will be safe using these from dust and small particles.”
For safety from chemicals, you will want a full respirator mask. I use this one:
It is super comfortable and works great. Never underestimate the damage done to your brain when working with these chemicals without proper safety gear.